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Sighișoara is a fortified Saxon hill town where 350 residents live inside the medieval walls — not a preserved site but an inhabited one. Notes from the last stop before autumn.
Ljubljana has 295,000 people, no cars in the centre, and dragons on the bridges. Plus a day trip into a cave system that swallows an entire river.
Bologna's arcades mean you can cross the entire city in the rain without an umbrella. Also: tortellini in broth, a leaning tower nobody visits, and the best €9 lunch in Italy.
Two weeks in a city that refuses to perform for visitors, a ferry to a prison island, and a walk into the Calanques that I got slightly wrong.
Starting a no-fly year on the Douro: granite stairs, a rabelo boat that goes nowhere, and the discovery that the cheapest view in the city costs €1.40.